This is the replacement water tube kit for your refrigerator. This tubing is made of plastic, is 1/4 inch in diameter, and comes with 2 inserts. This tube may be longer than the original tube, and may...
If your freestanding ice maker is not producing ice properly, the ice cutter grid assembly may need replacing. The cutter grid is located within the main unit of the ice maker and contains thin, heate...
This water inlet valve supplies the water needed to both the water dispenser and the ice maker. A block in the valve could be what is keeping your machine from properly dispensing water, or making ice...
This is a drain fastener cap and is used in conjunction with your freezer/refrigerator. This model is almost 1.5 inches in diameter, half an inch thick, and is white in color. This piece will fasten t...
This part is a drain pump for your ice maker. When you flush the reservoir on your ice maker to remove impurities, the drain pump is the part that removes the water from the reservoir. This is an auth...
Note: Sold individually.
Used with stand-alone ice cube makers.
$52.15
Special Order
Questions And Answers for 10689583700
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Paul
February 25, 2020
My ice maker does not shut off when full, just keeps making ice. How can I fix this.
For model number 10689583700
Hello Paul, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Temperature Sensor, PartSelect Number PS11756166. You will find this part located in the water pump area of the ice cube maker. The function of this part is to determine the water level within the water reservoir. Once the water level reaches a certain point, the sensor will signal the controls to fill the reservoir. We hope this helps.
I removed the 2 screws on each side of the grid and disconnected the electrical plugs attached to the grid. I slid the broken unit out. I then carefully slid the new unit in making sure not to pinch any of the electrical wires. I replaced the mounting screws, plugged the 3 connectors back into place and turned the ice maker back on. I ha
... Read mored ice cubes within a couple of hours
I removed the cutter grid and unplugged the light bulb and wire heating plug ins. I slid the front cover plate off the cutting grid and loosened the screws on the front of the cutter grid and unthreaded the broken, top grid wire, leaving the bottom wire in place as it was in tact. I then threaded the new wire through the cutting gri
... Read mored frame starting in the center and threading right and then left. While the threading was not difficult, the wire was easily kinked. The process up to this point was only 15 minutes or so.
Once it was completely threaded, I worked for a couple of hours trying to smooth and straighten the wire so that is was somewhat taut and straight enough to create symetrical ice cubes. My frustration came in pulling on the wire from the center point to each outside ending point where it was to be wrapped around the screw and the screw tightened back down. The wire was fragile enough that it would break, by the time I was finished I barely had enough wire left to touch the screw let alone hook around the screw. After 3 or four days of successful opperation, the grid quit cutting again. As I took it apart, it was obvious that the weight of the ice was enough to pull the wire, that was already too short, away from the screw. I refastened it again, but think it is unlikely to hold. If it won't hold, I would be hard pressed to purchase another wire. I may bite the bullet and purchase the entire grid mechanism with the wires already installed. Even though the cost of the entire grid mechanism is $200 more than the purchase of another wire, it may well be worth the ease of installation!
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.