This is a replacement push rod for your lawn tractor engine. It is made of aluminum and is the push rod used for the exhaust valve. Occasionally, the push rod in your engine can become damaged, and wi...
This is a replacement steel push rod for your lawn tractor engine. The engine will have two push rods; one made of steel, and one made of aluminum. This part is made of steel and is approximately 6 in...
This OEM Seal-Oil (PTO Side), also called the Oil Seal, is a Black, Nitrile Rubber, 2/14 O.D., individually sold part which is installed using a Seal Puller. Customers rate the installation difficulty...
This is a replacement cylinder head gasket for your small engine. The gasket is approximately 5 inches in length and 5 inches in width at its longest and widest points. The gasket creates a seal, and ...
This 5/16-18 wing knob is sold individually. It is a plastic part, black in color, that works on a variety of equipment. Its general function is to allow you to quickly loosen, remove, or fold down th...
The Seal-O Ring, also known as the gasket, is red in color, made of rubber, and is an OEM part that requires some skill to replace. This part is designed to create a seal between the carburator and ma...
This ball bearing is sourced from the original equipment manufacturer and can be used in a variety of outdoor equipment. It has an inner diameter of 11/16 inches. The ball bearing provides support for...
This genuine crankcase gasket is used on small lawn and garden engines. Its purpose is to make an air tight seal so that no air/oil leakage occurs. Over time this gasket will deteriorate and will need...
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Had to pull the engine off the rider mower. Drained the oil took shield off the flywheel. Set it upside down on a 5 gal bucket. Took a 7/16 hand wrench to remove governor lever from bottom of engine. Left it in its location. Pulled 10 1/2 " bolts. Split engine case. Found the old governor had broke into pieces. Had to use a magnet t
... Read moreo remove all the pieces. Removed the small clip and removed gear. Lubed shaft slid new on put new clip on. Lined governor weights with center piece tapped it in place very lightly. Cleaned gasket flanges pulled the shaft seal. Used the old seal as a seal driver. When putting the cover back on make sure the seal dont roll out. Take a mini screwdriver and tuck it in around shaft. Put bolts back in and tighten like instructions
Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.
Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by-
... Read morestep the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.
Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}
One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.
Remove old blade and blade adapter (important part).Removed nut that holds pulley to the shaft housing, then removed the pulley and put belt out of the way.Used 3/8 air impact to remove bolts that held housing in. Pre-greased th inner housing before installing.New housing mount holes were not threaded so had to get new bolts to fasten. Us
... Read moreed 5/16 x 1-1/2" hex heads with lock washers, washers, and Teflon lock nuts. Once mounted, reinstalled the top pulley and belt, tightened top nut, and put on blade adapter at underside of housing. Now ready for new blade.
