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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.
Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .
The Burner was getting too hot and you could not regular the tempature
Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
Outer Ring of Dual Radiant Burner Does Not Come On
Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!
replaced heating element on flat surface stove top
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.
The old switch would not regulate the temperature - running too hot
flipped off breaker Pulled the stove from the wall about 2 feet Removed back cover (4 screws) looked at existing switch - it was different than the new switch, but the instructions were spot on for the retrofit I marked the back of the new switch with the retrofit locations of the wires pulled off the knob removed 2 screws from the front of the range that holds the switch removed old wires using needle nose pliers attached new switch re-using same 2 screws from the front one at a time attached the wires to their proper location pushed knob back on reset the breaker tested the new switch - all was OK switched off breaker again replaced the back cover slid range back in place Breaker back on finished
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor. Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop 2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet. 3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface. 4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached. 5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity. 6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side. 7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together. 8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150. Tom in Steinhatchee
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor. Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
